(Warning: This is a long one, so strap yourselves in.)
Hello from
Madrid, where it is sunny and warm and SO much nicer that
London at the moment.
I’ve been working on a rollout here over the weekend and had some mixed fortune.
But we’ve managed to duck out a couple of times to do some cool things, so it has been one of the better weekends when compared to the last few.
The hotel we’ve been put up in is 5 star and really nice.
It’s got a really nice resort type pool (i.e. big with plants around it etc) but unfortunately no gym.
The rooms are comfy and quiet too.
When we arrived on Thursday night we didn’t get in until quite late because of the slowness with almost all air traffic at the moment (especially out of Heathrow). Despite the slow trip, I was still on my toes because I immediately detected signs of an intergalactic conspiracy! Madrid has been invaded by aliens!!! (see the picture). Ok, so I'm being stupid, but the light fixtures in the airport are really strange and as the tiled floor reflects them, it looks like alien faces are watching you, it's really cool!


Despite getting in late, we still managed to find a café just around the corner from the hotel which would serve us dinner (we later learnt that people in Spain eat lunch and dinner really late). The meal was nice and simple but had an awesome ‘tomato salad’ which was basically just huge thick slices of tomato, a bit of red onion, lots of olive oil with balsamic vinegar in it, plenty of salt and pepper. Sounds simple, but it’s tasty as! (I think it’s like Italy, they just get kick ass tomatoes around here). I also ate some tapas starters like pickled anchovies and stuff and ½ a roast chicken for the mail meal.
On Friday day/night my co-worker and I really ploughed through the work and got around 90% of it finished. We worked late but things were looking very good and we were hoping to get a bit of time off on Sunday. After a bit of sleep, we were back in the office finishing a few things off on Saturday morning. Of course, problems then cropped up. BlackBerries (those phone type things you get email on) absolutely suck! We spent ages trying to make them work with the new systems and then found out that there were problems with the main servers anyway, so nothing was working. We bailed at 7pm and went back to the hotel. I jumped into the pool for a quick swim and although it’s nice here weather-wise, it was still pretty cold. It didn’t matter though, I enjoyed the chance to get wet (crazy aussies!).
After that we (my workmate and I) went for a walk to see the Real Madrid stadium. It’s quite close to our hotel and very impressive. There’s even a café there where you can eat! So we did! The highlight of the day was the suckling pork that I had… it was awesome. I also tried a simple Gazpacho which was really nice. I tried to covertly take a photo of the grounds while eating, so that (below) is the best I could do without looking like a complete idiot. The glass is also really thick so it destroys the camera focusing (need a manual SLR!)

Sunday we got to work and tried to clean up the last of the issues with the Blackberries. By 3pm we thought we had everything licked, so we disappeared. In the previous couple of days we’d been speaking to people in the office (the Spanish are really nice) and they’d been telling us where to go and what to see. My co-worker had friends who happened to be in Madrid on holiday so we headed over to a region called ‘La Latina’ which has open markets etc and (reportedly) the best tapas in Madrid. Although we got there too late to see the market, we got to walk around the older sections of the city and check things out. It is VERY pretty with narrow streets, old houses and some nice park type areas – particularly near the Royal Palace.




By luck we walked past just as a service in the Basilica next to the Palace finished, so we got a look inside. It had some very impressive sculptures and one massive golden ‘wall display’ containing old paintings (see the photo, it’s hard to explain how big it is).




Through the locals we had also found out that at Las Ventas there would be bull fights on, so we all arrange to go and see them! I was really excited and that is something totally different which I’ll never see anywhere else. It’s not too expensive to get in, about 22 euros and it is very popular with loads of tourists packing in as well as many locals. The locals are quite vocal too during the fights and heckle the Toreadors and their helpers etc when they stuff up or run away. Apparently we were quite lucky because during August many people are on vacation and the so the bulls fights are easy to get in to whereas during peak season, the stadium packs out. They also only do the fights once or twice a month, so being able to see it was extra special. (My apologies because some of the photos are quite grainy but they will have to do).

So now that I can say I’ve actually seen a full on bull fight, I don’t know if I’d ever go again. At the end of the fight, almost every bull is killed. Apparently if the bull is particularly brave or fierce and fights well (which I think basically means they kill the Toreador), very occasionally they are allowed to live. The first one is very hard to watch as it is very brutal with a lot of blood, a lot of injuries are inflicted on the bull over the course of fight, and even then at the end the killing strike is quite difficult to do, so they sometimes miss (I’ll go into that later).
The idea of sitting and watching something being killed for ‘our’ pleasure was also really unsettling for me, particularly as I didn’t realise that they actually kill ALL the bulls that night. For those of you who don’t want the particulars, you’d probably want to stop reading now (and there’s photo’s below too). Another thing which makes it difficult is that the bulls also make groaning sounds and puff and pant (because they’re in pain!) during the fight which echo very eerily around the stadium and make you feel even worse. My workmates friends had brought a local with them, so she was really good at explaining everything that was going on, but even she doesn’t really approve of them (not many people do according to her). She tried to explain that even though the bulls are killed, they are treated like veritable bull-kings up until that point in their lives and the Toreadors actually love them and don’t see it as killing for the sake of killing, i.e. that there’s much more to it. For all of us however it was very difficult to see how there was ‘much more’ to it than a living creature get repeatedly injured and run ragged (until it can barely stand) before being killed, and for some reason spectators enjoy seeing this happen.
So at the start of the fight, the bull comes charging out. There are usually about 6 or 8 'something'-adors which are like apprentice Toreadors (we’ll call them mini-toreadors) who just make the bull charge around a bit and get a little tired. They also have the advantage of only having red on one side of their cape so they can run away and show the yellow side (bulls don’t see yellow apparently) if they get in trouble. They also have the advantage of being able to duck behind shields built into the side of the ring. They basically work the bull up until it starts to get tired and panting. The bulls weight over 500 kilos, so at the start they ram the barricades and charge around, and look really really scary (I would not get in that ring).

After the bull tires a little, trumpets sound and two heavily padded horses with their eyes covered come into the ring. The riders hold long spears and have protection on their lower legs and stirrups. The mini-toreadors then drive the bull towards one of the horses and the rider will get its attention by pointing the spear at the bull. I was told the bulls know that is a threat, so they always choose to charge the horse over the mini-toreadors. The rider turns the horse side on so the padded side faces the bull and waits. As the bull charges, the rider spears it in the back just above the front legs while the bull rams and tries to gouge the crap out of the horse!!! We were all stunned the first time… we were there for bull fights, not horse-bashing! The horses seem to be able to withstand it though and the rider keeps jabbing the spear deeper into the same spot in the bull (which will often keep bashing into the horse) until the mini-toreadors can distract it away. The bull will then once again be driven towards a rider so it can be stabbed a second time before the horses then retreat. Somehow the entry and exit of the horses is controlled by officials in the stands with a white towel/flag thing, but I dunno exactly how. Usually after the stabs from the horses, blood will be streaming down the side of the bull from the wounds and occasionally they cut really deep and you can see blood ‘squirt’ out each time it charges or runs. It’s really gruesome.


While the mini-toreadors keep the bull moving and distracted (and blood keeps coming out) two normal Toreadors enter the ring with short (about 30cm) ‘sticks’ covered in colourful paper with spikes on the end. They get the bulls attention by holding them high and pointing them at it, then run sideways is it charges. The bulls can’t turn fast enough so the aim of these guys is to let if get close, run to the side and stab the sticks into the bull as it tries to get them. Once in, the sticks remain attached to the spikes (stuck in the bull) but they kind of ‘bend’ and hang down the sides of the bull (see the photo). They will try this three times so that up to 6 ‘sticks’ are stuck into the bull. So there’s more pain for the animal, even though the ‘sticks’ don’t seem to actually do much damage.

After all that, the Toreador comes out to ‘fight’ the bull, and he has a red cape (red on both sides) so there is no running away. In a couple of fights, by the time the bull got to this stage it was bleeding so much and was so tired that it could barely move. This made the crowd really angry and they abused the horsemen and stuff for stabbing the bull too much at the start. If you ask me, send the Toreador in first! Let’s see how it does then!!! .
So now comes the bit we all know. The Toreador using the red cape to move the bull around the arena, dodging the charges etc and trying tricky stuff (like one guy was on his knees doing it for a bit) to make the bull chase the cape. One Toreador got a little complacent and got smashed by a charge, but he wasn’t really hurt and got up again to continue. One thing that was impressive was that they know what they are doing so much that they can make the bull run around etc, they turn their back on it to walk away. They know when it charges and when it won’t. The Toreador literally tires the bull to the point when it can barely stand, one of them even had the bull so stuffed that he was putting his hand on the horns and head to ‘hold’ it at bay. Once the bull is totally ready, the Toreador walks to the side of the arena and get’s the ‘killing sword’. It’s about as long as the guys arm and quite thin.

* This is a final warning for those with weak stomachs! *
The Toreador then runs the bull around a few more times before finally standing directly in front and lining up the killing stroke. They put the cape low to the ground to make the bull look down at it and expose its spine. Then they pull the cape towards them, the bull charges forward and they stab straight in (deep). As I said earlier, the first guy got it straight in, one split second and you miss it! The bull then keeps going though, it will run and try to charge before (as if it doesn’t know it is dead yet) its legs give out and it drops. Suddenly, it’s down on the ground, and the assistant Toreadors come in and one stabs it with a small knife cleanly in the back of the head to cut the spine. When it is definitely dead, a team of horses are brought in to pull the carcass away.


After that first one we were all shocked into silence, and the girls were practically bawling. It was really hard to watch.

By the time the shock wore off, the next fight was starting. This one was more or less the same, but when the Toreador was trying to kill the bull at the end, he missed twice! The sword came out the first time, and the second went half way in and stuck. Then the mini-Toreadors had to distract it while the main one got a special tool which looks like a sword with a hook on it that he used to hook his sword and pull it out again. Each time they stab and miss, blood just pours out and even bits of flesh fly off and come out etc. Finally on the third try, his strike was true.
The next three fights just got worse (apparently our local guide said the Toreadors were crap and should have done a lot better). One guy took 5 tries to kill the bull and had to pull his sword twice. Another bull was really fierce at the start and charged the horse so repeatedly that the rider with the spear stabbed it over and over in the back in the same spot. By the time it broke away, blood was literally pouring down its legs and chest and colouring the sand underneath it. It lost so much blood it could barely stand, but still the Toreador took 4 strikes to kill it. We felt so bad for that one in particular because even once it went down after the final strike, it still tried to fight on as obviously even that strike hadn’t cleanly cut the spine. The assistants had to come in and use the short knife a couple of times to finish it properly. The final fight was good though, with the guy moving the bull well, even putting his hand on it’s head etc, before cleanly killing it with 2 strikes (the first wasn’t big though, he pulled out of it and only just touched the bull).
* End of gross stuff *
So after that, what else to you do but eat?! (I wasn’t really up for it straight after, we hung around for a bit). Our local friend took us to a kick ass little restaurant with an absolutely beautiful terrace out the back. (see the picture)

Here we had ‘proper’ Paella which was absolutely awesome! The big dish in the middle of the picture below was just a mixed paella (seafood and meat) and the black dish was black paella (squid ink) with seafood. Both were really nice and the black paella (although looking really odd) has a nice flavour, plus it makes your lips and tongue black so it’s cool! It was very cheap too, real nice. Over dinner we drank Sangria (really good Spanish chick drink of wine, spirits, fresh fruit and lemonade/gassed water) which everyone should try if they come to Spain. After dinner we headed out for drinks at a bar just near it where we talked for ages and sipped on Mojitos and some other Spanish cocktail which I can’t pronounce. It was a good night.
Today we came into work (a little tired) and checked that everything was working. We had one issue with Blackberries yesterday but thought it would be sorted overnight. We’ve just wasted 5 hours troubleshooting things from our end until we reached the conclusion that it had to be a problem on the central servers. And what do you know, it was! What a waste of a beautiful day in a foreign city. My workmate and I are absolutely livid! Still, it hasn’t been all bad as I got to write to all of you while we were waiting for stuff to download etc. Now we plan to go back to the hotel and rock up massive bill on the company, both of us need massages! (ok, maybe not, but they are gonna pay for a nice dinner for us!)
On Saturday I was lucky enough to listen to the whole of the Dockers game via webcast while working, and that was awesome!! I can’t believe that they are doing so well and I’m not there to see it. But it did make me just remember one of the weirdest things that had happened here in Spain. On Saturday night before we went out my workmate was flicking the tv channels in his room and he started yelling at me (our rooms are adjoining). I went into his room and there was AFL on tv! With Spanish commentators!!! It was hilarious.
So go the Dockers! We all know they are going to belt the heck out of the Eagles next week. I hope you all are having a Derby party of some kind and that you have a drink for me. I’m going to really miss that one. Still, at least for the next week, I can do the ‘Dockers are in 4th place dance’ to the other Aussies in the office. On Sunday I’ll be lying on a beach somewhere near Torravieja (southeast Spain I think) but I’ll definitely try to catch the derby webcast.
Bye
Anka